Alfama is Lisbon's most emblematic quarter and one of the most rewarding for walkers and photographers thanks to its medieval alleys and outstanding views.

Because its foundation is dense bedrock, it survived the 1755 earthquake, and a walk through this old-fashioned residential neighborhood is now a step back in time. It is a village within a city still made up of narrow streets, tiny squares, churches, and whitewashed houses with wrought-iron balconies adorned with pots of flowers, drying laundry, and caged birds.

It was settled by the Romans and Visigoths (it was also an important Jewish quarter in the 15th century), but it was the Moors who gave the district its atmosphere and name (alhama means springs or bath, a reference to the hot springs found in the area). They were also responsible for its web of streets created as a defense system, while at the same time enabling their homes to remain cool in the summer.

Most of the older residents have lived here all their lives and retain a strong sense of community, although their rent-controlled homes are now dilapidated,  and an increasing number of wealthier people are investing in their properties and moving in. Other renovated buildings directly below the castle have been converted into some of the city's most atmospheric and unique hotels.

Alfama has influenced poets and novelists, and although Bairro Alto is the city's traditional Fado quarter, it is Alfama that has always been the inspiration for Fado songs, and is becoming just as popular with Fado Houses.

The district has an intangible quality that needs to be experienced to be truly appreciated, and the best way to get to know it is to get a little lost (something almost impossible to avoid), and wander around admiring the postcard-perfect views, visiting the churches, and walking up to the castle for the most breathtaking panorama of the city and the greatest sunsets.

Contrasting with these timeless images is a trendy modern development by the waterfront across from Santa Apolónia train station. It houses stylish design shops, restaurants, and one of Europe's top clubs,